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The Resurgence of Diesel: The IT Show of Milan FW 22

By: Emily Ho

Glenn Martens has delivered. This brilliant Belgian designer has designed and creative directed 3 separate collections for Fall/Winter 2022: Y/Project, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Diesel. After presenting breathtaking shows for Y/Project and Jean Paul Gaultier during Paris Fashion Week and Couture Week, he presented his first-ever physical show for Diesel during Milan Fashion Week. Here, we will dive into the Diesel runway show and look into our favorite looks.


My first thoughts: yes, just yes. From the set production to the makeup to the clothing, everything about the Diesel show was captivating and reminiscent of the 90s and early 2000s. The set design featured huge inflatable blow ups positioned in exuberant poses, encompassing the brand’s playful, rebellious, and experimental vibe.

Now, speaking of the clothing. This AW22 collection showcased four main themes: denim, utility, pop, and artisanal. Diesel has always been synonymous with denim, and this fashion week, we really got to see that. Martens was able to interpret the brand’s heritage – denim – and play into it on the runway. Most of the denim pieces are from DIESEL Library, the brand’s range of sustainable denim. Throughout his 69-piece collection, you can see Martens’ use of innovative techniques such as trompe l’oeil, upcycling, distressed and treated denim, the return of the signature ‘D’ logo, and new twists on vintage DIESEL graphics. Initially, when you think of Diesel, what comes to mind is: “oh isn’t that the grungy brand you see in every mall.” This season, Martens transformed that belief into something that feels more elevated and in tune with what our generation wears – which is why we are so drawn to this collection.


Here are some of our favorite looks broken down by theme:


1.Denim in all its forms with lots of 90s and Y2K influence

2.Utility mixed with avant-garde, giving a ready-to-wear vibe

3.Pop accents giving “MTV in its prime” vibes

4. Artisanal, upcycled, & sustainable


As you can see, Martens has truly outdone himself. This collection featured many amazing ready-to-wear pieces which I think has a lot to do with its popularity and the wide attention the show received this season. It is difficult to come by a runway show that includes so many wearable, everyday fits. Every look is a perfect embodiment of either nostalgia, playfulness, layering, textures, or colors, and it is all so incredibly eye-catching. Glenn Martens’ future work is definitely one to look forward to and one we will be following closely.


Here you can check out the runway livestream for more looks and inspiration.

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