By Kabir Mehta
The world of Schiaparelli was one of the pioneers of surrealism and extravagance in fashion
since its foundation in 1927. It boasted some of the finest couture, and one could argue it was, quite literally, wearable art. The house prided itself on its collaborations with artists like Salvador
Dali.
The house closed in 1954 due to financial issues but was revived in the late 2010s. However,
this new Schiaparelli failed to grasp the same level of popularity it once had. That was until
Daniel Roseberry, an American designer who has been working at Thom Browne, was
appointed as creative director.
He debuted his first show in 2019, but his favorite show of mine so far is SS22. Titled “Rebirth,”
Roseberry showed this collection with an air of restraint yet extravagance. Through various
fabrics and motifs, it featured a total of 3 colors: gold, white and black. Roseberry said that he was inspired loosely by the costumes in “Dune” by Denis Villeneuve and wanted to create a
collection for the powerful yet glamorous woman.
The show started off showing three suits with sharp tailoring and strong silhouettes followed by
simple yet stunning gowns featuring an array of Schiaparelli house codes, from the gold toe
heels to statement gold jewelry pieces. Roseberry even had a gag when sending a model down
the runway with a “golden baguette.” In all, the house wanted to bring back the meaning of
“couture” by giving us intricate yet simple designs.
The house has never been known for its own draping but instead takes pride in its artistry;
Roseberry has never shied away from this fact. Gold-brimmed hats with a brain motif bring
reference previous Schiaparelli pieces from the archives.
Overall, the collection was a massive success, both within the couture world and outside it.
Moreover, it brought attention to one of the fastest-growing aspects of fashion: statement
jewelry and accessories. This is something Roseberry has made very apparent with his
surrealist eye, lips, nipple, and planet motifs found across this collection. Each and every look
leaves you wanting more and more of his dream-like clothing.
That’s why this collection has been one of my favorite collections of all time and sets the bar
high for modern haute couture. It emphasizes the idea that fashion is more than a trendy top or
a red carpet dress; It is art, and it is emotion conveyed through a collection.
Kabir Mehta is a writer for Boston University Fashion and Retail Association. He is a sophomore at Boston University, studying Business Administration and Hospitality.