Paris Fashion Week SS27: The Runway Highlights

From September 28 to October 6, Paris Fashion Week showcased its Spring/Summer 2027 ready-to-wear collections. This season’s shows pulled away from the hyper-minimalist designs that dominated past seasons, and instead offered a more glamorous, eccentric, and experimental approach to dressing. From bold silhouettes to unexpected styling and dramatic details, the collections celebrated fashion as a form of self-expression. While each fashion house offered its own interpretation of the season, a common theme emerged: a return to personality, creativity, and the art of dressing up. Here are some of the standout moments and trends from the Spring/Summer 2027 runways.

Anthony Vaccarello Marks the End of a Historic Decade-Long Run at Saint Laurent

Amid speculation that Anthony Vaccarello’s time at Saint Laurent was coming to an end, his Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Saint Laurent was nothing short of glamour and extravagance. His gold-gilded looks, including tailored trench coats, pencil skirts, and elegant cocktail dresses, were sent down the runway at the Trocadéro. With the Eiffel Tower gleaming in the background, Vaccarello delivered a cinematic celebration of the house’s signature sophistication and allure. The collection balanced sharp tailoring with fluid silhouettes, capturing the effortless elegance that Saint Laurent is known for. 

Saint Laurent has confirmed that Vaccarello will be stepping down after a decade as creative director. Though his successor has not yet been announced, his impact on the house’s identity will not be forgotten. 

Matthieu Blazy’s First Year as Creative Director of Chanel

Matthieu Blazy returned to the Grand Palais for his Spring/Summer 2027 ready-to-wear collection, presenting 83 looks that paid homage to Coco Chanel and the different phases of a woman’s life. His take on Chanel’s classic tweed suit, delicate jersey pieces, and structured outerwear served as a nod to Chanel’s early work.

Throughout the collection, Blazy emphasized freedom and movement, incorporating elegant flowing dresses, gauzy silks, and fabrics that moved effortlessly. Balancing the house’s timeless codes with a sense of modern femininity, Blazy’s designs celebrated the evolution of the Chanel woman without losing sight of the brand’s heritage.

The Shift from Hyper Minimalism to Eccentricity

One of the most notable shifts of the season was the movement from the hyper minimalism of recent years toward eccentric, bold, and expressive designs that remain wearable. At Schiaparelli and Valentino, dramatic silhouettes, playful details, and unconventional styling brought a renewed sense of individuality to the runway. Even The Row, a label synonymous with the “quiet luxury” aesthetic, tiptoed from its signature clean and effortless looks towards artful, eclectic, and free-spirited layers. Designers balanced everyday wear with unique, imaginative details, proving fashion and practicality can coexist. 

Return of Romantic Dressing 

Lingerie-inspired dressing and dreamy femininity also made a strong appearance at Paris Fashion Week. At Chloé, Dior, and Isabel Marant, delicate lace, sheer fabrics, and flowy silhouettes brought a sense of softness and sensuality to the collections. At Dior, Jonathan Anderson continued to reinterpret the house’s signature feminine style through a contemporary lens, blending fluid shapes with voluminous hems, pleats, and themed accessories. At Chloé, broderie anglaise, eyelet lace, and 1960s-inspired floral embroidery waltzed on the runway. Creative director Chemena Kamali embraced the house’s free-spirited bohemian roots through airy fabrics and delicate lingerie-inspired layering. Meanwhile, at Isabel Marant, the design team presented a more youthful approach to femininity, including effortless layering and relaxed fits. Altogether, the collections celebrated a softer, romantic approach to dressing.

Celebrating Human Craftsmanship

With the rise of AI and technological advancements, the future of the fashion industry has been a topic of discussion. Valentino and Carven’s shows have explored the question of how AI will impact fashion through two drastically different approaches. Though they are practically opposites, there is one underlying theme: a push towards more human creativity and craftsmanship. 

At Valentino, creative director Alessandro Michele presented his collection Antibiblioteca, a maximalist, 80s-inspired collection that was staged inside a historic library, celebrating the unpredictability of human expression in an increasingly technology-driven world. On the other hand, Carven’s newly appointed creative director Kai Nesselrath debuted with a raw, organic approach, embracing unfinished hems, hand-draped fabrics, and intentional imperfections that highlighted the beauty of the creative process rather than just the finished product. Despite their contrasting aesthetics, both collections have emphasized the individuality, craftsmanship, and human touch that remain at the heart of design.

From the glamour of Saint Laurent to the romantic silhouettes of Chloé, Paris Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2027 collections marked a shift toward individuality and self-expression. Whether through bold styling, delicate fabrics, or unconventional silhouettes, designers embraced a renewed sense of creativity while honoring their houses’ heritage. This season proved that current fashion is moving beyond minimalism, making room for personality, experimentation, and the art of dressing up.

References

Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM). (2026). “CHANEL – Ready-to-Wear Spring Summer 2027 – Show and Collection Notes.” https://www.fhcm.paris/en/news/chanel-ready-to-wear-spring-summer-2027-show-and-collection-notes

Valentino. (2026). “Valentino Antibiblioteca: Spring/Summer 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection.” Valentino. https://www.valentino.com/en-ad/v-universe/fashion-shows/pret-a-porter/valentino-antibiblioteca-spring-summer-2027/watch-the-show

Vogue. (2026). “Spring/Summer 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collections.” Vogue Runway.https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows?page=2

Vogue. (2026, October 9). “Anthony Vaccarello Bows Out at Saint Laurent.” Vogue.https://www.vogue.com/article/anthony-vaccarello-bows-out-at-yves-saint-laurent

W Magazine. (2026). “Dior Spring 2027: Jonathan Anderson Runway Photos.” W Magazine.https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/dior-spring-2027-jonathan-anderson-runway-photos

Who What Wear. (2026). “The Biggest Trends From the Schiaparelli S/S 27 Runway Show.” Who What Wear. https://www.whowhatwear.com/fashion/runway/schiaparelli-paris-fashion-week-spring-summer-2027

Who What Wear. (2026). “The Row Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027.” Who What Wear. https://www.whowhatwear.com/fashion/runway/the-row-paris-fashion-week-spring-summer-2027

Women's Wear Daily (WWD). (2026). “Carven: Kai Nesselrath’s First Collection and Interview.” WWD. https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/carven-kai-nesselrath-first-collection-interview-1239290983/