Exploring the Golden Years of Saint Laurent
The Unwavering Legacy
“Fashions fade, style is eternal.” - Yves Saint Laurent
Trends come and go, but signature silhouettes and innovative initiatives at Saint Laurent will always continue to serve as the foundation of its brand identity.
Saint Laurent is a beloved brand known for its intricate tailoring and especially its adoration for women. In fact, the brand introduced the first tuxedo suit for women in 1966, titled Le Smoke. It initially shocked its couture clients and, and Saint Laurent only sold one suit. However, the unexpected departure from traditional fashion later became one of the house’s most recognizable styles.
The once controversial choice of garment is now a defining feature for the fashion house. The silhouette of tailored blazers for women is the main attraction for modern Saint Laurent’s runways under the direction of Anthony Vaccarello.
Vaccarello studied fashion design at Cambre school in Brussels. He started his career by partnering with Lagerfeld at Fendi and even launched his own successful label. After gaining numerous attractions from his endeavors, he was introduced to Saint Laurent in 2016.
Many of his iconic designs include an masculine interpretation of women’s fashion. This is evident in his 2023 reinvention of the Saint Laurent coat, where he introduced oversized yet structured winterwear for women. He paired the look with a well-fitted dress that still embraced the femininity of the body underneath.
More so, a similar tailored design even became a social media fixation back in 2025, when Bella Haddid walked the runway wearing squared glasses and a power suit with sharp shoulder pads. It was a revolutionary movement that became the talk of every prominent fashion magazine and called back to the brand’s pioneering history.
The Golden Chapter
However, even the most influential visionaries eventually reach a turning point. Underneath the sparkling Eiffel Tower and massive gilded chandeliers, Anthony Vaccarello presented a show rumoured to be his last collection.
The setting was no coincidence. The Parisian landmark has become a recurring backdrop throughout Vaccarello’s decade at the brand, and the gigantic chandeliers pay tribute to the first Yves Saint Laurent runway at the Hotel InterContinental. The nods to the brand’s history make the runway itself both a celebration of Saint Laurent’s own enduring legacy and Varcarello’s creative visions.
The show opened with models appearing in garments seemingly dipped in gold. The striking metallic looks fed into the glamorous atmosphere, providing a visual representation of how everything Vaccarello touched turned into gold.
These first few looks included a collection of trench coats. The exaggerated shoulders reflect Vaccarello’s signature approach to structure, while the sharp and defining edges of the garment are rooted in Saint Laurent’s distinctive identity. The collection also features Vaccarello’s adoration for bigger earrings, scarves and tall wedges, making it the perfect balance of history and modern style.
Later, the bright gold featured in the beginning transitions to copper or bronze, before fading into black. These colours symbolize Vaccarello’s ten year journey at the brand, transforming from the brilliance of his arrival and throughout the golden years towards the uncertainty of what the future holds.
A Final Goodbye?
Anthony Vaccarello closed the show by handing a set of keys to his son, leading many to speculate he is leaving behind his keys to the reputable fashion house– or perhaps that this is his way of stepping back from the spotlight and prioritizing family over fame.
In the end, whether the keys symbolized a goodbye or a new beginning, Anthony Vaccarello has certainly left his mark at Saint Laurent. As the brand continues to evolve, his creations will continue to inspire other visionaries and be remembered as a timeless inspiration for generations to come.
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